How to Troubleshoot a Windshield-Washer Pump

Follow these steps to determine why your windshield-washer fluid is not flowing freely, and soon you'll be driving with clean windows again. The problem may be something simple like a disconnected hose, or dirt in the spray nozzle.

   

Things you'll need:

• Windshield-washer Fluid
• Replacement Hose
• Compressed Air And Air Nozzle
• Funnel
• Needle Or Pin

Instructions:

• Turn on the windshield washer with the engine off and the key in the On position.
• Listen for a humming sound to determine whether the windshield washer motor is operative. Open the hood and ask a friend to listen while you turn on the windshield washer. If you don't hear any sound, check the fuses.
• Replace the fuse if it is blown. If the fuse is not blown and the motor is silent, have your mechanic replace the windshield-washer motor. If you hear the motor humming, proceed to step 4.
• Check the reservoir and add windshield-washer fluid if its level is low or empty. You can fill the reservoir right up to the top-- usually it doesn't have any full or empty indicators. Use a funnel to avoid spills.
• Check that the water is not frozen in the reservoir. This will only happen in cold weather if you filled the reservoir with plain water instead of windshield-washer fluid.
• Make sure the small rubber hose that plugs into the windshield washer reservoir is attached.
• Follow the hose to the rear of the hood. Check for crimped, torn or broken lines. The line from the reservoir splits into two lines at the hood. If damaged, remove the line by pulling at the base where it attaches. Bring it to an auto-parts store and purchase a hose of identical width and length. Install it and check for leaks.
• Clear any leaves or debris away from the area around the washerfluid nozzles on top of the hood.
• Clear the washer-fluid nozzle's passage with a needle or a pin.
• Unhook the washer lines at the reservoir and at the hood, then force compressed air through the lines to dislodge anything stuck in them.

Source: eHow

Transmission Mount Bracket

If you're a hard off-roader, chances are you enjoy all the ruggedness of the terrains that you traverse and the vibrations created by these terrains. However, your engine and transmission may not take the effects positively. That's why you need to secure them not only with a mount but as well as with a motor and transmission mount bracket. Vibrations are damaging to the parts in your vehicle, more so to the engine and the transmission. They can cause parts to get dislodged from their mounting location and to get damaged, and even to damage other neighboring components. To protect the engine and transmission, they're held by their mounts. And, the mounts need a reliable motor and transmission mount bracket in keeping the parts secure. The bracket guarantees that the motor and transmission will remain firm no matter how great the amount of vibrations your ride encounters while you drive. Just be sure that you inspect the said part every now and then to see whether it's already damaged. Also, pay attention to such things as unwanted noise that may indicate a damaged bracket and your auto parts banging on other components.

Motor mounts (engine mounts) are used to connect a car engine to the car frame. They are usually made of rubber and metal. The metal portion connects to the engine on one side and to the frame on the other. The rubber is in-between to provide some flexibility (so engine shake doesn't cause the car to shake). Newer cars may use slightly different mounts, however, there purpose is the same. Provide the connection from the engine to the car frame. The number of motor mounts varies from car to car.

Symptoms of a Bad Transmission mount bracket:

Shaking

• A bad transmission mount can cause your vehicle to shake and rattle severely while accelerating. This is often caused by a broken transmission mount, but may result from worn or damaged rubber blocks. If the transmission mount breaks completely, the transmission may shift during acceleration, causing a knocking or clunking sound. If the transmission shifts and twists severely enough, it may damage other components, which cand result in additional noise and possibly damage.

Noise

• When the rubber blocks between the vehicle's chassis and the transmission mounts break free or become damaged, the vibration and noise from the transmission will be conducted through the transmission mount and into the chassis of the car. This is most often recognized as a roaring or vibrating sound that echoes throughout the vehicle during acceleration. If the sound is caused by bad rubber blocks, the transmission mounts may break, damaging the transmission.

Loss

• Though rare, if a transmission mount becomes damaged and breaks, the transmission may become dislodged and fall from the vehicle. This will result in thousands of dollars in damage and is not easy to repair.

Fuel Tank Selector Switch

Anyone know what this button or switch is?

That is a Fuel Tank Selector Switch.

What's the use of an extra fuel tank filled with fuel if you can't gain access to it because of a damaged fuel tank selector switch? A dual fuel tank can be a great benefit to your vehicle. It reduces the chance of getting stranded at the side of the road because of loss of fuel. It also lessens the interval by which you visit the gas station for a fuel refill. For you to enjoy all these benefits, however, you need to keep the switch operating in top condition. This switch is your access to the two fuel tanks in your vehicle, opening and closing the door of the tanks to control which tank will be used. However, there are instances when the fuel tank selector switch becomes damaged. Exposure to harsh elements can cause the switch to break over time. And when this happens, you have no way of gaining access to one of the tanks in your vehicle. This may not seem like a problem at first, until your vehicle dies on you because of fuel starvation.




Sends power to the selector causing the door inside the unit to open and close swapping tanks. On a 92-96 Ford F series it is located to the right of the headlight switch, too the left of the instrument cluster. The tanks are supposed to run independent of the other tank and only the tank you chose should be supplying fuel. With age I find these tanks mess up in all sorts of ways. It is possible that the switch is malfunctioning and pumping from both tanks but as far as the front tank going from 3/8 to 5/8 when you filled up, by design that can't happen. What probably happened was the gauge settled down enough to read the actual fuel amount. I suspect a problem with the front tank since you can not run the gauge down to E whether because the gauge is reading wrong or the tank won't suck up gas that low in the tank.

Making sure the ABS wheel sensor is working properly, CLEAN it!!

There are many things that can cause your ABS light to come on. Some are serious, so you should never just ignore the light. But there are times when the light comes on and can be met with a simple solution. For instance, a dirty ABS wheel sensor can cause the system to trigger the ABS light during self evaluation. You'll be shocked when you see how much road gunk can accumulate on this very important sensor.
Even if your ABS light hasn't made an appearance, it's a good idea to clean the sensor. A good time to do it would be during brake pad replacement when you have the wheels off anyway.

What You'll Need:

• Ratchet wrench and sockets
• Ratchet extension
• Jack
• Jack stands
• A strong rag

Get your stuff together and you're ready to start. Remember, it's never safe to work on a car supported by a jack, use jack stands!

Begin by loosening your wheel lugs, then jack the front of the car up and rest it securely on jack stands. With the car safe, remove the wheel lugs and take the front wheels off. With the wheel off, turn the steering wheel all the way in, opposite the side your working on. For example if your working on the passenger side, turn the wheel all the way toward the drivers side.

Locate the ABS wheel sensor (Shown in the picture above). Remove the bolts that attach it to the rest of the suspension. You may also need to remove a few bolts to pull the sensor away from the vehicle for cleaning. Follow the line to see if there are more bolts. Remember not to force it or pull too hard. Then along the line theres another two 10mm bolts, that need to be removed, just follow the abs sensor line to get at them. The initial bolts on this application are pictured below.

With the sensor free, take your rag and wipe the sensor until its clean. I prefer not to use any chemicals on the sensor to avoid potential problems. If you need to, use mild soapy solution and rinse well. Reinstall the sensor in the same manner it was removed. 

Source: Autorepair

Felpro

Federal-Mogul's Fel-Pro® brand is our premium sealing system and the industry’s leading brand of replacement sealing products for light vehicles, light trucks, medium-duty trucks and heavy-duty applications. This Federal-Mogul brand also includes specialty lines for performance, sport and marine engines.

Federal-Mogul engineers are continually pushing ahead with new sealing science, developing problem-solving products like PermaDryPlus® rigid carrier gaskets.

The Fel-Pro brand by Federal-Mogul is a leader in multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket design, the current leading-edge technology in sealing today’s lightweight engine castings with a long-term, leakproof seal called PermaTorqueMLS®.

Because we’re a global producer of engine and sealing products, our aftermarket customers benefit from Federal-Mogul’s proven expertise in engineering and manufacturing OE components and subsystems for the world’s major automotive manufacturers. Our extensive field experience gives us insights into the expected changes in engine components over time. We design our aftermarket sealing parts to meet your specific needs in the replacement environment. 

2011 Saturn Ion

2011 Saturn Ion is a compact sedan or a coupe that emphasizes style and innovation. 2011 Saturn Ion features some significant updates, including higher-grade interior fabrics and richer-looking interior trim in more harmonious colors. Additional sound-deadening material brings a quieter cabin. The stereo systems have been improved and are available with an MP3 player, XM Satellite Radio, and a six-CD changer. 2011 Saturn Ion steering has been re-calibrated for improved road feel at speed. Both of the available automatic transmissions have been refined as well. 2011 Saturn Ion is available as a four-door sedan, or as an innovative coupe with two reverse-opening auxiliary rear doors.
 
The sedan is offered in three trim levels. The coupe is available in the upper two levels. Saturn does things a little differently from other car manufacturers, so instead of assigning arbitrary letter combinations to each trim level, Saturn calls them simply Ion 1, Ion 2, and Ion 3.

All 2011 Saturn Ion models are powered by the same 2.2-liter four-cylinder engine, rated 140 horsepower. A five-speed manual transmission is standard. Automatic transmissions are available, but Saturn installs different units in the sedan and the coupe. Sedans use a five-speed automatic, which is unusual in this price range. Coupes use a continuously variable transmission (VTi, Saturn calls it) that uses pulleys and belts instead of gears to maximize smoothness and efficiency. Anti-lock brakes (ABS) with traction control are available on all other 2011 Saturn Ion. Head curtain air bags that protect both front and rear-seat passengers in a side impact are an unusual option in this price class. CD and CD/MP3 systems are available on Ion 1 and Ion 2. XM Satellite Radio and On Star are offered at levels 2 and 3. A convenience package adds cruise control plus power locks, mirrors, and windows to Ion 2. A power sunroof is offered on all models except the Ion 1 sedan. Leather upholstery is available on Ion 3. It’s more than four inches taller than the previous-generation S-Series that it replaced. The 2011 Saturn Ion roof curves heavily down to the high trunk line almost giving it the appearance of a hatchback rather than a traditional sedan. The look is contemporary and not that dissimilar from the Nissan Altima and Volkswagen Passat, both lauded for their design. 2011 Saturn Ion maintains the Saturn tradition of attaching composite polymer body panels to a substantial steel space-frame. The polymer panels can’t rust and, because they are slightly resilient, they resist the minor impacts that leave small dents and dings in sheet metal. The down side is that the Saturn’s panels look thicker than steel sheet and gaps between body parts have to be greater to allow for expansion in hot weather. Another benefit of the composite panels is that they are relatively easy to replace. Saturn has exploited this advantage on the Ion by offering alternatively colored roof rails that owners can easily install to customize their car’s appearance. All 2011 Saturn Ion come with body-color roof rails, but Nickel-Silver rails are available for the coupe and the sedan, and Charcoal rails are available for the sedan.

Source: Reviewcar.com

2011 Dodge Charger

Is there an angrier car on the road than the Dodge Charger?

The 2011 Dodge Charger receives a number of significant upgrades, including freshened styling, higher-quality interior materials, an all-new and more powerful 3.6-liter V6 engine, a retuned suspension, electric-assist power steering, more standard features and a new electronic interface. The high-performance SRT8 model has been dropped for now, but it's likely to return in the future.

One of the most significant of these changes is the introduction of an all-new 3.6-liter Pentastar V6 that takes the place of the outgoing model's 2.7-liter and 3.5-liter V6s. With 292 horsepower on tap -- an increase of 114 hp and 42 hp respectively over the previous V6 engines -- this new powertrain becomes a fine alternative to the Charger R/T's carryover 5.7-liter V8.

The Charger's interior has also received a makeover, with handsome styling and soft-touch materials replacing the bland look and hard plastics that gave the previous cabin a low-budget feel. The list of standard features and options has been substantially upgraded as well, and now includes the latest high-tech bells and whistles, including the Sirius Travel Link service that accesses info from local gas prices to live weather radar images. Equally nifty is the available Cross Traffic Alert system that makes backing out of a blind parking space much less stressful.

A careful mining of  Dodge’s past gives the new car enough retro touches to tie it to the Chargers of  yore. But Dodge didn’t throw out what so many people loved about the previous generation. Though they’ve been tweaked a bit, the forward-canted crosshair grille, the glaring headlights, and the fighting-bull stance remain. Yes, the Charger’s still a bad-ass, but it’s now a better car to live with. In other words, it is managing its anger quite well. 

Exhaust system

An exhaust system is usually tubing used to guide reaction exhaust gases away from a controlled combustion inside an engine or stove. The entire system conveys burnt gases from the engine and includes one or more exhaust pipes. Depending on the overall system design, the exhaust gas may flow through one or more of:

• Cylinder head and exhaust manifold
• A turbocharger to increase engine power.
• A catalytic converter to reduce air pollution.
• A muffler (North America) / silencer (Europe), to reduce noise.

Design criteria

An exhaust pipe must be carefully designed to carry toxic and/or noxious gases away from the users of the machine. Indoor generators and furnaces can quickly fill an enclosed space with carbon monoxide or other poisonous exhaust gases if they are not properly vented to the outdoors. Also, the gases from most types of machine are very hot; the pipe must be heat-resistant, and it must not pass through or near anything which can burn or can be damaged by heat. A chimney serves as an exhaust pipe in a stationary structure. For the internal combustion engine it is important to have the Exhaust System "Tuned" (refer to tuned pipe) for optimal efficiency. Also this should meet the regulation norms maintained in each country.In Europeon countries, EURO 5, India BS-4 etc.,

Exhaust System Tuning

Many automotive companies offer aftermarket exhaust system upgrades as a subcategory of engine tuning. This is often fairly expensive as it usually includes replacing the entire exhaust manifold or other large components. These upgrades however can significantly improve engine performance and do this through means of two main principles:

• By reducing the exhaust back pressure, engine power is increased in four-stroke engines

• By reducing the amount of heat from the exhaust being lost into the underbonnet area. This reduces the underbonnet temperature and consequently lowers the intake manifold temperature, increasing power. This also has positive side effect of preventing heat-sensitive components from being damaged. Furthermore, keeping the heat in the exhaust gases speeds these up, therefore reducing back pressure as well.

Back pressure is most commonly reduced by replacing exhaust manifolds with headers, which have smoother bends and normally wider pipe diameters.
Exhaust Heat Management is the term that describes reducing the amount of exhaust heat loss. One dominant solution to aftermarket upgraders is the use of a ceramic coating applied via thermal spraying. This not only reduces heat loss and lessens back pressure, but provides an effective way to protect the exhaust system from wear and tear, thermal degradation and corrosion.

DC Sports

DC Sports Exhaust

• Gain horsepower and get the sport compact sound you've been craving by installing a DC Sports exhaust system
• A DC header gets gasses out of your engine more efficiently resulting in torque and horsepower across the rev range
• By installing in the stock locations, DC Sports exhaust components save you hours on installation time
• Choose a stainless DC Sports exhaust system for the ultimate in good looks and durability

DC Sports Exhaust

We don't know why more exhaust manufacturers don't take a page from the DC Sports exhaust system catalog and build their systems to fit in the stock locations. After all, it doesn't matter how good a system performs if it takes days of bending and welding to get it to fit. A DC Sports exhaust utilizes factory hangers and mounting points to ensure you get a great, out-of-the-way fit from your new components. From there, DC Sports exhaust products build in all the premium features you'd expect from a high end performance exhaust system. For example, you'll find stainless steel used throughout every DC Sports exhaust system, with CNC mandrel bends providing large, high-flow curves. Anywhere hardware is required for your installation, the DC Sports exhaust kit you receive will include it. The muffler used on DC Sports exhaust systems is a hand-welded high flow design with a wide open core for the best possible gas flow with legal sound output. At the end, your DC Sports exhaust will have a polished stainless tip with the instantly recognizable DC Sports exhaust logo. Whatever you drive and whatever look you're going for, there's a DC Sports exhaust for you: Single canister, dual canister, and even twin canister tandem applications are in stock and ready to go, so get your DC Sports exhaust today and get ready for some real performance.

DC Header

You know you have to have a DC header on your sport compact to really get the most out of your engine's abilities. All the air you can squeeze into the cylinders doesn't make a bit of difference if the burned gasses can't get out efficiently. And guess what: your factory manifold isn't efficient. A DC header, on the other hand, is made up of individual runners heading back to a common collector. Compare that to your stock manifold, which most likely looks like a log that all the cylinders have to dump into. Since each cylinder gets its own individual exhaust pipe on the DC header, you avoid competing exhaust pulses, backpressure, and unequal pressures, all of which can stop the exhaust in its tracks. DC header designs include four-into-one, four-into-two, and various racing configurations. Which DC header is right for you depends upon how you intend to use your car. For street and strip combo use, choose a DC header that gives good low-end torque at the expense of absolute peak horsepower. If you road race or drag race, high-end power may be what you want from your DC header, torque or not. No matter which you choose, you'll find stainless steel, CNC mandrel bends, and thick, welded flanges across the entire DC header lineup. That way, you can choose the performance characteristics you want and always be assured that your DC header will deliver quality workmanship.

DC Sports Header

Turbulence and backpressure are the big enemies of your exhaust system, since they rob horsepower by preventing smooth exhaust gas exit. Your ally is found in the DC Sports header. A DC Sports header bolted on in place of your stock exhaust manifold can improve gas flow by a factor of four, which means low restriction, low turbulence, and almost zero backpressure. How? Rather than dumping all the exhaust into a single plenum like a log-style manifold does, a DC Sports header gives each exhaust pulse unimpeded access to the collector several feet away. As it travels down its individual tube in the DC Sports header, the exhaust pulse loses energy and slows down, so that by the time it reaches the collector it no longer has the energy to cause backpressure all the way back up at the cylinder head. Thus the next exhaust pulse is free to race down the tube without restriction. A properly-designed unit like the DC Sports header can even use the pressure waves to suck subsequent exhaust pulses from the cylinder—sort of like a reverse turbocharger. The scavenging effect of a DC Sports header is particularly important if you're running forced induction or nitrous, due to the high volume of exhaust gas. A DC Sports header will ensure that you get the most out of your induction system. And with stainless steel used throughout, thick, laser cut flanges, and machine welds, your DC Sports header will help you get the most for a long time to come.

A 1 Cardone Alternator

The A1 Cardone product line has expanded to include products manufactured new by Cardone, so now it is possible to buy an A1 Cardone alternator, made with the quality and durability you've come to associate with the A1 Cardone name. In the same way that A1 Cardone remanufactures parts with an eye on strengthening the basic design, they make their line of new parts, such as the A1 Cardone Alternator, with an eye on creating efficient, long lasting automotive parts worthy of the decades of success and satisfaction symbolized by the Cardone name. An A1 Cardone alternator, like all other A1 Cardone parts, is made to the highest industry standards, using the best manufacturing materials available. Using cheap or less than high quality materials runs the risk of creating products that will hold up well under day-to-day driving conditions, and that is not a risk that A1 Cardone is prepared to take, not with an A1 Cardone alternator or any other part bearing the Cardone name. The rigorous testing that each part manufactured by A1 Cardone undergoes ensures that an A1 Cardone alternator will be performing its essential tasks dependably for many miles to come. You can trust an A1 Cardone alternator to see to it that your battery maintains its charge and that the electrical systems of your car will receive the power they need for optimum performance. Because a poorly performing alternator can strain the automotive systems that depend upon it, it only makes sense to take advantage of the proven A1 Cardone quality by using an A1 Cardone alternator in your vehicle.